Bixiga (officially known as Bela Vista) is Sao Paulo's Little Italy. It got its pejorative nickname of Bixiga (bladder) during the late 19th-century when residents suffered from bladder infections. Today Bixiga is much-loved by Paulistanos, over half of whom claim Italian heritage. At once quaint and seedy, beloved Bixiga is still home to a large Italian population along with other immigrant groups and features some of SP's best Italian restaurants. For three weekends in August, the neighborhood celebrates the festival of Our Lady of Achiropita with a street fair, which, as far as I could tell, was dedicated solely to Italian food.
My friends and I arrived late Saturday afternoon, while it was still possible to circulate through the neighborhood without knocking over someone's plate of pasta or sticking an elbow in someone's tiramisu. We scoped out all the food stands, as Italian classics blasted through a mega sound system. The music was interrupted by an announcer indicating where the shortest lines for fogazza (a fried dough stuffed with tomatoes, cheese, and herbs) were and reminding us that mass for the Achiropita would be starting at 6:00. Every half block there was a private security guard standing on a platform three feet above the crowd (I guess the pasta-eaters can get pretty rowdy).
After great deliberations, I opted to try the stuffed eggplant and the polenta with bolognese sauce. The eggplant was a little cold, but well flavored with garlic, basil, and olives. The polenta was divine. We walked around a bit more, marveling at the 100 kg provolone cheese that was being raffled to benefit the Achiropita parish. It was as tall as me.
I finished my Bixiga culinary experience with a thick wedge of ricotta tart. A bit sweet for my taste, as are most desserts here in Brazil, but I had no problem eating it.
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